The bathhouse

The main hall holds a Finnish-style sauna lined in jarrah, a plunge kept at six degrees year-round, and a warm pool under the original beams.

The rules are short: no phones past the lockers, quiet voices on the rest deck, and nobody hurries you out. Saturdays add aufguss rounds on the hour - Freya, a towel, and more heat than you planned on.

Massage runs from two treatment rooms off the main hall. Book it on its own, or stack it after a circuit while your shoulders are already halfway there.